Sapphires In Watches: Why Do Famous Brands Use Them?

When timekeeping collides with the majesty of gemstones, the outcome is nothing short of captivating. A fascinating element of this blend is the sapphire, a stone renowned for its durability and mesmerizing blue hue. But this revered jewel isn’t just reserved for ornamental use in the world of horology; it holds a vital role that extends far beyond aesthetic allure.

The luxury watch industry, a realm where excellence and precision are paramount, has found a unique ally in the sapphire. This gemstone isn’t just leveraged for its physical beauty, but also for its functional prowess. With remarkable hardness second only to diamond, sapphires offer an impressive fortitude that makes them an excellent choice for components subjected to constant friction and wear. And yet, the sapphire’s story in timekeeping isn’t just about its hardiness; it’s also about an enigmatic allure that captivates onlookers.

Top-tier watchmaking brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Richard Mille, and Hublot, to name a few, have incorporated sapphires into their masterpieces in truly innovative ways. Whether it’s the nearly scratch-proof sapphire crystal protecting the face of the watch or a transparent sapphire case revealing the watch’s intricate mechanical ballet, the inclusion of this gemstone invariably elevates the timepiece to new heights of sophistication and technical mastery.

oin us as we delve into the captivating world of sapphires in watchmaking, exploring why they’re more than just an accessory. We’ll unfold how their unique attributes enhance the function and form of timepieces, and why the most prestigious watch brands in the world opt for these blue marvels in their exquisite creations.

What Is The History Of Using Sapphires In Watches?

The incorporation of sapphires in watches has a rich history that stretches back several decades. However, the transition of sapphires from ornamental use to technical applications was a gradual and intriguing journey.

In the realm of luxury watches, sapphires were originally used for their aesthetic appeal. The striking blue of the gemstone made for a fascinating accent on dials, bezels, and other visible elements of high-end timepieces. These accents were often the marks of exclusive, often limited-edition models from top brands, including Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Cartier.

However, the turning point for sapphires in horology came during the mid-20th century, as the industry began to recognize the stone’s remarkable hardness and resistance to scratching. With a score of 9 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness — just one rank below the hardest mineral, diamond — sapphire offered an unmatched resilience that made it an excellent choice for protecting the delicate dials and movements of watches.

Swiss watchmaker Tissot was one of the early pioneers in this regard, introducing the first mass-produced watch with a sapphire crystal, the Tissot Astrolon, in 1970. This ushered in a new era for the watch industry, as other luxury brands quickly recognized the advantages of using sapphire crystals over traditional materials like acrylic and mineral glass.

By the late 1980s, most luxury brands, including Rolex and Omega, had transitioned to using sapphire crystals for their watches, appreciating not only the durability of the material but also its crystal-clear transparency.

In recent years, the use of sapphires in watches has evolved further. High-end brands like Richard Mille and Hublot have pushed the boundaries of innovation by crafting entire watch cases out of sapphire. This process, which requires cutting-edge technology and countless hours of meticulous labor, results in stunningly transparent timepieces that offer an unhindered view of the complex mechanical movements within.

In essence, the journey of sapphires in watchmaking has been a testament to the industry’s constant quest for innovation, combining enduring beauty and unmatched resilience to redefine the horological landscape.

Reasons why Sapphires Are Used in Watches

Sapphires Are Hard

Sapphires have a unique blend of physical properties that make them ideal for use in watchmaking, especially for the part known as the watch crystal — the clear cover that protects the face of the watch. The primary reason is the hardness of sapphires.

On the Mohs scale, which is used to measure the hardness of minerals, sapphires score a 9 out of 10. This places them second only to diamonds in terms of natural hardness. The hardness of a material is crucial in determining its resistance to scratches and abrasions. Given that a watch crystal is exposed and often subjected to bumps, scrapes, and potential damage, it’s beneficial to have a material that can resist such harm. Sapphire, thanks to its hardness, is nearly impossible to scratch under everyday circumstances, making it a perfect candidate for the job.

But hardness isn’t the only factor. Another key aspect is the sapphire’s ability to withstand wear over time. When used as a watch crystal, the sapphire’s surface maintains its clarity and brightness for many years, resisting the small scuffs and dulling that can come with daily use.

In addition to its resilience, sapphire is also highly transparent, which makes it perfect for a clear, unobstructed view of the watch face. This transparency, combined with the material’s durability, means that watchmakers can craft timepieces that are not just robust, but also have a lasting, timeless aesthetic appeal.

In essence, the hardness of sapphires provides a robust shield for luxury watches, protecting their intricate mechanisms while simultaneously enhancing their visual appeal.


Indeed, while the remarkable hardness of sapphires is often the first characteristic to be recognized, their transparency is equally crucial in the world of horology. Transparency, or the ability of light to pass through a material, directly influences how well one can view the dial and inner workings of a timepiece. Sapphire’s impressive degree of transparency makes it an ideal material for not only watch crystals but also for other components within a watch.

When we talk about watch crystals, a sapphire’s transparency ensures a clear and unobstructed view of the dial, allowing users to easily read the time and other information. This property is especially valuable in watches with detailed dials or numerous complications, where visibility and legibility are of utmost importance.

However, the use of sapphire doesn’t stop at watch crystals. High-end watchmakers, in their quest to push the boundaries of watchmaking, have started using sapphire in more innovative ways. Brands such as Richard Mille and Hublot have pioneered the use of sapphire to create entire watch cases, not just the crystal. This has allowed them to design transparent watches that offer a fascinating, all-round view of the watch’s movement and its intricate mechanics.

Creating such sapphire cases is a complex and time-consuming process due to the hardness of the material, but the results are truly breathtaking. They allow for a complete appreciation of the masterful engineering and craftsmanship that goes into every single part of these luxury timepieces.

In summary, the transparency of sapphires enhances the functional and aesthetic aspects of watches. By offering an unobstructed view of the time, as well as the intricate workings of the watch movement, sapphires serve as a perfect window into the heart of watchmaking artistry.


Stability is an integral characteristic of sapphires that further amplifies their suitability for watchmaking. The term “stability” in this context refers to a material’s ability to resist changes in its structure, whether from physical pressure, temperature fluctuations, or exposure to chemicals. For sapphires, this stability manifests in several ways, making them ideal for use in luxury watches.

Firstly, sapphires have excellent thermal stability. They can withstand extremely high temperatures without deforming or changing color. This makes them particularly well-suited to withstand the array of conditions a watch may be exposed to during its lifetime, whether that’s the intense summer heat or the chilly winter cold. A watch crystal or case made from sapphire won’t warp, crack, or become discolored due to temperature changes, ensuring the watch maintains its pristine appearance and functionality over time.

Secondly, sapphires possess chemical stability. They are highly resistant to acids and other corrosive substances. This is important in the context of watches, as they can often come into contact with various chemicals, such as in perfumes, soaps, or even natural skin oils. This chemical stability ensures that the sapphire components will not react, thereby maintaining their visual clarity and structural integrity.

Finally, sapphires also have a high resistance to pressure and shock, which is beneficial for the overall durability and longevity of the watch. Even though sapphire is a hard material, it also has a certain level of flexibility that allows it to absorb shocks and impacts without breaking.

In summary, the stability of sapphires – thermally, chemically, and physically – contributes to their use in watches. This combination of traits ensures that a watch featuring sapphire components can maintain its aesthetic and functional qualities even under varying environmental conditions, making it a reliable companion for any situation.

Used in Front and Back Of Watches

The use of sapphire in watches isn’t limited to just the front-facing crystal that protects the dial; the transparency, durability, and stability of this material make it an excellent choice for the watch’s case back as well.

Traditionally, the front crystal of a watch, also known as the watch glass, has been made from sapphire for many luxury brands. This crystal serves a dual role. Functionally, it provides a virtually scratch-proof layer of protection for the watch face, safeguarding the delicate hands and intricate dial designs. Aesthetically, the exceptional transparency of sapphire offers an unimpeded view of the dial, allowing for clear and precise time reading.

In recent years, however, the use of sapphire has extended to the case back of watches. Watch enthusiasts are increasingly interested in the inner workings of their timepieces. To cater to this, many high-end watchmakers have started using transparent sapphire case backs, giving owners a window into the precise mechanical movements that power their watches.

A sapphire case back serves as a portal to the watch’s “soul,” showcasing the complexity, precision, and beauty of its internal machinery. From the rotation of gears to the oscillation of the balance wheel, these movements can be observed in real-time, adding an extra dimension of fascination and appreciation for the craftsmanship involved in watchmaking.

Moreover, sapphire case backs offer the same benefits as sapphire crystals in terms of durability, resistance to scratches, and chemical stability. This means the intricate workings of the watch are well-protected while still being on display.

In summary, the use of sapphires in both the front and back of watches not only safeguards the timepiece but also enhances the watch-wearing experience, marrying practicality with the inherent desire to appreciate the art of horology.

What Brands Use Sapphires In Their Watches


Rolex, one of the most prestigious watch brands in the world, has been at the forefront of many innovations in watchmaking, and the use of sapphires in their watches is no exception.

Rolex primarily uses synthetic sapphire for the watch crystals in their timepieces, and this has been a standard for the brand since the late 1980s. The crystal serves as the protective layer over the watch dial, and it’s subjected to a myriad of external factors, including bumps, scrapes, and potential chemical exposure. As a result, the material used needs to be resilient and enduring.

Sapphire is chosen for its remarkable hardness and scratch-resistance. On the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, sapphire scores a 9 out of 10, placing it second only to diamond. This means that under normal wearing conditions, a sapphire crystal will remain clear and unscathed, maintaining the pristine look of the Rolex watch over time.

The high level of transparency of sapphire is another reason Rolex uses this material for their watch crystals. A clear, unobstructed view of the dial and hands is crucial for users to read the time accurately. Sapphire’s transparency ensures this visibility, contributing to the functional elegance that Rolex watches are renowned for.

In terms of processing, Rolex takes great care in crafting these sapphire crystals. Each crystal is cut from a synthetic sapphire block, then meticulously shaped and polished to achieve the perfect fit for each specific watch model. Some Rolex watches, such as the Rolex GMT-Master II and Rolex Yacht-Master II models, also feature a small, cyclops lens on the sapphire crystal to magnify the date display, enhancing readability.

In summary, Rolex’s use of sapphire in their watches embodies their commitment to quality, durability, and user-centric design. The inclusion of sapphire crystal not only enriches the aesthetic appeal of their timepieces but also ensures they remain functional and resilient throughout their lifetime, echoing Rolex’s tagline: “A crown for every achievement.”

Tag Huer

Tag Heuer, a prominent Swiss luxury watchmaker known for its sports watches and chronographs, utilizes sapphire in its timepieces for several key reasons that align with the brand’s commitment to innovation, performance, and style.

Tag Heuer employs synthetic sapphire crystals for the front glass of their watches, providing a virtually scratch-proof protective barrier for the watch face. With sapphire’s hardness rating of 9 on the Mohs scale, it is second only to diamond in terms of hardness. This exceptional resistance to scratching and abrasion ensures the clear visibility of the watch dial, preserving the timepiece’s aesthetic quality even under strenuous conditions – a characteristic that aligns well with Tag Heuer’s sports and racing heritage.

The transparency of sapphire is another reason it is favored by Tag Heuer. The brand is well-known for its intricately designed dials and complex chronograph functions. The high transparency of sapphire crystal offers an unobstructed view of these elements, allowing the wearer to appreciate the fine details and use the watch’s functions with ease.

Furthermore, some Tag Heuer models, such as those in the Carrera Heuer-02T series, feature a transparent sapphire case back. This design choice gives enthusiasts the opportunity to admire the precise mechanical movement that powers the watch, underscoring Tag Heuer’s technical prowess and commitment to craftsmanship.

Additionally, Tag Heuer has started to explore innovative uses of sapphire in certain special editions of its watches. For example, the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph features a carbon composite hairspring within a tourbillon visible through the sapphire dial and case back, combining cutting-edge material science with the traditional art of watchmaking.

In essence, Tag Heuer’s use of sapphire in their watches illustrates their dedication to robustness, clarity, and innovative design, enhancing both the functionality and aesthetics of their timepieces to deliver the impeccable performance that the brand stands for.


Cartier, the revered French luxury goods conglomerate renowned for its exquisite jewelry and timepieces, employs sapphires in their watches with a finesse that reflects their historic association with the “King of Gems.” The use of sapphires in Cartier watches is multifaceted, encompassing both functional and aesthetic elements.

In terms of functionality, similar to other high-end watchmakers, Cartier utilizes synthetic sapphire crystals for their watch glasses. These sapphire crystals offer outstanding scratch-resistance due to their hardness — a 9 on the Mohs scale, which is just below the hardness of diamonds. This ensures that the timepiece remains in excellent condition even after years of use. The crystal-clear transparency of sapphire also ensures that the elegant dials of Cartier watches can be seen without any distortion.

Moreover, Cartier’s relationship with sapphires goes beyond just functionality. Given their heritage as a jeweler, Cartier frequently integrates sapphires into the design of their watches as decorative elements. This use of sapphires is not only emblematic of the brand’s jewelry-making roots but also serves to add an additional touch of luxury and exclusivity to their timepieces.

One notable example is the Cartier Ballon Bleu series, where several models feature a blue sapphire cabochon set into the winding crown, adding a distinctive touch of elegance and sophistication. The deep blue sapphire seamlessly blends with the watch’s design and accentuates its aesthetic appeal.

Another exceptional model is the Cartier High Jewelry watch collection, where sapphires are used extensively for their vibrant color and allure. These watches, often limited editions or unique pieces, feature sapphires in various cuts and sizes, from the dial to the bezel, and sometimes even the watch bracelet. The Cartier ‘Révélation d’une Panthère’ watch, for instance, features hundreds of tiny gold beads and sapphires that create the image of a panther – Cartier’s emblematic animal – when the watch is tilted.

In essence, the use of sapphires in Cartier watches marries the brand’s rich jewelry heritage with their watchmaking expertise. From serving a practical purpose in watch crystals to elevating the aesthetics in luxurious high-jewelry watches, sapphires truly encapsulate the timeless elegance that Cartier stands for.


Seiko, a respected Japanese watchmaker with a history dating back to the late 19th century, is known for its innovation, precision, and attention to detail. Seiko uses sapphire crystals in many of its higher-end timepieces, demonstrating its commitment to quality and durability.

The most prominent reason Seiko uses sapphire in their watches is the hardness and scratch-resistance it provides. Sapphire rates a 9 out of 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness, making it the second hardest material after diamond. This means that a Seiko watch with a sapphire crystal is highly resistant to scratches that could mar the crystal’s surface, ensuring the timepiece remains visually appealing even after years of use.

The excellent clarity and transparency of sapphire crystal are other reasons Seiko chooses to use it. Sapphire crystal provides a clear, unobstructed view of the watch dial, enhancing legibility and highlighting the fine details and craftsmanship of Seiko’s watch designs.

One example of a Seiko watch that uses a sapphire crystal is the Seiko Presage “Cocktail Time” series. These watches are inspired by cocktails crafted by Hisashi Kishi, the head bartender at the STAR BAR in Tokyo’s Ginza area, and the sapphire crystal protects the beautifully patterned dials while providing an excellent view of them.

Seiko’s luxury line, Grand Seiko, also uses sapphire crystals extensively in its watches. For example, the Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake” model features a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface to further enhance readability.

In conclusion, Seiko’s use of sapphire crystals in its watches highlights the brand’s dedication to quality, durability, and clarity, offering their customers high-quality timepieces that are built to last and a pleasure to look at.


Tissot, a renowned Swiss watchmaker, has a long history dating back to 1853. They have established their reputation through quality craftsmanship, innovation, and a commitment to producing reliable and durable timepieces. As part of their dedication to quality, Tissot uses synthetic sapphire crystals in many of their watches.

The choice to use sapphire stems from its exceptional hardness and scratch resistance. Sapphire is second only to diamond in terms of hardness, making it ideal for withstanding everyday wear and tear. This ensures that Tissot watches maintain their aesthetic appeal, with the crystal remaining clear and unscratched even after years of use.

Additionally, the high transparency of sapphire is another advantage. This ensures that the dial elements, often meticulously designed in Tissot watches, can be seen clearly, providing an unobstructed view of the time and any additional features such as chronographs or date displays.

One example of a Tissot watch that uses a sapphire crystal is the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar. This watch is notable for its touch-sensitive sapphire crystal, which is used to control various functions including a compass, altimeter, and weather forecast. The use of sapphire in this model not only ensures durability but is also central to the watch’s innovative functionality.

In their luxury line, Tissot’s Chemin Des Tourelles Automatic Chronograph models also feature domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective coating. This enhances the readability of the watch and protects the intricate details of the dial.

In summary, Tissot’s use of sapphire crystal in their watches demonstrates the brand’s commitment to quality, durability, and precision. These attributes have kept Tissot at the forefront of watchmaking for over a century and a half, earning them a place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts around the globe.

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